Surf Shugyo

Decided to go surf some of the coast west of here on my own for a few days recently. The plan was to drive as far as Warnambool, surf, read, play guitar, look at an open fire, surf, but I didn't get past Apollo Bay. Have to say that pulling up to a break you know nothing about is a little nerv racking when you're alone & have no local knowledge to draw on. In the end I didn't have the time to spend driving for days, so I decided to leave more time for surfing.

I stayed one night at Wye River (awesome pub btw & the locals were really friendly & forthcoming with local knowledge of some of the breaks, as well as confidence shattering stories over a beer or two, or three, of rogue waves, Killer Whales, Sharks etc...thanks for that). I got to a place just east of Apollo Bay on the Great Ocean Road called Petticoat Creek and decided to take a look. Gorgeous little spot tucked into a hillside. Decided that view & nestled feeling would do me for another couple of days. Apt name really, seeing as I'm such a big girls blouse! The waves were friggin' massive!!! The first two days were not possible to surf due to a huge storm front that came in. Not even the shortboard riders were out, let alone beginners on longboards like me. The waves were double overhead at certain breaks, I wanted to take a trip to the dunny just at the sight & sound of them! Although I couldn't get out there and have a paddle, I was content just to be in their presence, like a lover just out of reach.

Got out Saturday in the sheeting rain that was so heavy I could barely see the beach once I was out. It turned to mush quickly so I went back in & stood on the beach, board at my feet, arms folded, shivering a little as I looked out into the big blue with a thousand yard stare. I was Bodhi, "just waiting for my set" but content to see there was a whale (one of several I saw over the four days) out off the beach 300 metres or so having some fun. Right! I thought, if he's out there then I can get out there. Not taking any notice of the fact that the whale & I share no similarities whatsoever apart from both being mammals...details! I went back out with a smiling determination that only the foolhardy & the innocent can foster. It was wiped off my face pretty quickly once I was slapped around. The waves were like a disgruntled lover, giving me a backhander every time I got excited about the prospect of having a ride. Surfing and women...hmmm, plenty of comparisons to be drawn there, but another time. Swallowed a gob-full of seawater in a frontloader whitewash of one attempt that made me want to vomit instantly. Later it just made want to give up on the idea of dinner, my stomach was that full of ocean minerals.

On the way home I stopped off at a nice little break. The sun was shining and although I had to share the waves with several others, the feeling and etiquette was polite most of the time. I caught a few waves and have even started to feel more confident with my turns now. Nothing spectacular, but enough to make me feel like I'm past the, "Heading straight for the beach", stage.

Disappointed I didn't see more of the coast but I know there will be other trips. I have to say, better to be surfing unknown breaks with a friend or two. It's pretty scary stuff for a beginner like me to just paddle out & hope for the best without having a plan B with or without local knowledge. They don't call it The Shipwreck Coast for nothing.

Brrrrrr!

Although the water temp has increased 1.5 degrees of late the water is still bitterly cold at 13.5 degrees celsius. One of my many hesitations before biting the bullet has been cold water and even colder wind once you're out of the water. Those few minutes getting changed by the car are often worse than the cold water itself! Moz gave me a great tip he learned while surfing in Japan. It's simple but effective. You take a flexible or expandable water tank or bottle, only has to be 5 litres or so, fill it with hot water from the tap before you head out and stow it in your wetty crate or tub. When you finish you peel your wetty down to your hips and pour the hot water over your head and shoulders. Sounds too simple and even a little silly. Moz says he gets some funny looks at the carpark afterwards from some of the old school guys, but really, you'd rather be sneered at a little than be cold. I can assure you it's the best way to finish off a surf in winter. It brings your body temp up quickly and helps in the interim before you get dressed. A beanie on your noggin asap, before any other clothing, also helps stay warm. The other benefit is you place the water tank under your rashy and wetty while you drive to the surf and when you put it on you get some added warmth before you start. Bloody genius! I bought a British army shower bladder, from a disposal store. It's about 15 litres, I think. Very soft but durable, a lot like a massive hot water bottle, and after use it doesn't take up much room in your tub.

Deathbed memories are made of this

I've had some good little waves of late, but some have tossed me around like a cork. I come up to the surface spluttering & blinking wondering how such a harmless & friendly little wave could have done that to me so easily and unexpectedly. Then I replay what happened & nearly always find a small fault with my position on the board, or my take-off, or angle into the beach etc. etc.. It only take s a lapse in concentration for a split second & you've been shown who's boss. I love it. Just when I think I'm getting a handle on things, I'm tossed aside like a piece of inconsequential driftwood.

I discovered a great little spot by accident recently, Urquharts Bluff, just out of Anglesea one afternoon. I got down there just as the sun broke through an overcast day. The waves were perfect for a beginner like me & there was a small school bus of kids learning how to surf (minus the bus of course) just finishing up. I paddled out & found a quiet spot where there's a consistent right-hander only two feet high. As I sat on my board, bobbing in the cold clear water, I noticed out over Bass Straight there was a huge rainbow looming after a sun shower. I caught a few little easy waves, had a blast & after coming in & drying off I sat on the little grassy hill overlooking the beach & watched a two other guys enjoying the last few waves in the sub-conscious warmth of the setting winter sun. What could be more perfect? A death-bed memory, right there!

Pay attention

Had a nice little surf down at Lorne on the weekend (great beginners beach to learn on). Nothing much was happening & it was virtually closed out as it tends to do there. Yet I had some fun for an hour or so before it was dead. I came in on a wave to the beach, hopped off into knee high water & was about to grab my board when a little shore break came up behind me & smacked my board hard up against my lower right leg. I only registered the impact for a second then went back out to get what I could from the dying swell.
When I got out I noticed I was tight in the lower leg & limping a little, but I was in that euphoric moment of, "I just went surfing & all is right with the world". When I got home to Geelong later, I got out & could hardly put any weight on that leg. Ignoring it, as men tend to do, for the next couple of hours I finally had a look to see if there was any evidence of my soreness. Sure enough, I had a lump on the side of my leg like a small developing country in the pacific. Some ice, then heat & rest, by the next day it wasn't so bad. Makes me realise how important it is not to just switch off once the ride is over. A small lapse in concentration, but one I won't be making again.

Little by Little

Have been getting out to surf pretty regularly the last couple of months. At least once a week, sometimes twice. The surf hasn't always been great, but I can't complain as I haven't quite worked out the breaks I surf yet. Some days they're best at low tide, so I try for that, then I get there & nothing is happening. So I try for high tide, but the wind isn't quite right. So I try for the optimal wind direction combined with a rising mid-tide, but get there only to find there's not much swell happening that day. Very bloody frustrating...depending on my mood. Just to get out there & be in the ocean, feeling the icy chill on my skin & the power & surge of the swell beneath me is often enough to have me smiling & thinking of when I can next get back for another little surf.

When I come out of the water, I find I'm born again. Free from all the minor worries of life, it's disappointments, thrills, spills & surprises. I'm back to zero, ready to start my life fresh, no past, no future, just NOW, each & every time. It's why so many people become addicted to surfing I suppose. It's a very hard thing to get across to anyone unless they've had more than a quick whitewash go at it, but then again, most people can connect easily with the majesty & beauty of the ocean. It attracts & lures so many of us.

Have had some friends say they are too big to surf, or too tall or too little. Rubbish. The waves don't know how big you are. The surf board doesn't know how big you are. If you can stand on one leg for three seconds or more then you have enough balance. Pick the right size board for you & have a go! You'll love it, guaranteed.

Whitewash Head

Had a hilarious & insightful email from my fellow Silver Grommet mate, Bez, last week. He was telling me of his latest outing into the surf of Christchurch. Thought I'd share it with you...

"Not sure if I have told you this yet...even if I have it was so much fun I will tell you again.

Two weeks ago I went out in a 4-6ft swell. Really mint conditions for Christchurch. I was way the f@#k out the back....the furtherest I have ever ventured. I rode a rip that hugs a cliff face called "whitewash head". It took me out the back into the big blue where I could see around the penninsular and into the other bays. Magic. Never seen that before from the water. There were a couple of other blokes out there otherwise I would have shat myself. I was out there looking for some unbroken water to have a rest really! Every now and then these MASSIVE sets would come through. I'd go pale and farty and pray my feeble turtle roll would protect me from the white water crush and tumble. In the interests of self preservation I decided to try and get the f@#k back to land. Unfortunately I'd have to paddle into one of these monsters.

I noticed that the first couple of rollers seemed a little less hostile than the remaining ones so thought I'g go early on the next set.

I see my ride coming...I'm deep in the pocket and totally committed. As this face starts to really lift I hit it and am just managing to keep my feet connected to the plank, such is its force. As I'm cranking down the steep drop, with my eyeballs and hemorroids hanging out, the other blokes out there are ripping a yeeeeeaaaaaaa in support of my limb flagging antics. Bless them.

Somehow...unbeknownst to me, I manage to stick it and carve a nice turn at the bottom and come around right and start to feel this wave. We hang out together for what seems like an age. Me finding the angles and moving with it's changing nature.

When it runs out of puff, I almost start paragliding with my face, such is the width of my smile. Every time I have ever caught a wave, it's the best wave ever...but this really was the best wave ever...until the next one.

Wow...I'm still feeling keenly the joy of that moment :) "

Much Danger!

A lesson in humility & knowing ones limits wash learnt by yours truly two months ago. Went to catch some waves with Moz on his side of the bay at Pt Leo. We decided to go to 2nd Reef where Moz & his mate Barry like to surf. Being winter, it's cold of course, but I as cold before we even got in the water. I bought a 3/2 glue sealed suit with bat wing & a thermal 1mm vest. Didn't make a lick of difference! Have since ditched the vest in favour of a long sleeve rashy. What a difference! Much warmer & helps fill me out a little as the cold water always seems to find the gaps in my suit. But I digress...
After an hour or so in the freezing cold water, we found ourselves surrounded by 30-40 other surfers all in a line up only 50 meters wide going for the same waves! It was getting agro & way too crowded...madness. We moved down the coast a bit to Steps, looked harmless enough, in fact it looked bloody awesome for a beginner like me, but I was cold to my core when I got out of the water & onto the beach at 2nd Reef. I couldn't feel my hands, at all, I had no motor skills to speak of, fine or gross & the walk back up to the cars made me feel ill. I could sense something wasn't quite right & should have called it quits then & there. Not wanting to miss out on the fun & bail early, not to mention the drive to get from Geelong to Mornington for a surf also, I got in again. Idiot!
I struggled to paddle out the back to even attempt catching a wave & the waves were only 2ft!!! After another 30 mins or more, I was spent! My arms were a figment of my imagination, truly useless! String beans thrashing at the surface. As Bez said to me recently of his arms when failing, "They are but the mere work of an artist TC...painted on!" Moz & Barry headed in after one good wave. I wanted one good wave too so thought I'd give it one last hurrah. I noticed I was drifting out away from the point a little. Then I noticed I was a long way off the point...hmmmm interesting I mused. I was caught in a little rip, nothing serious, but with no arms to paddle, the cold shutting down my whole system now & discouragement setting in I was in a spot of bother you might say. Moz could see from the beach I was struggling & began to wade in without his board. I was going to wave him away to say I was fine. I mean, really, how embarrassing! But when I saw him swimming towards me I was a little relieved I must admit. He took my board to paddle in for me while I swam in with the resource of my legs which were still fine. I know the ocean & am a good swimmer but I was well beyond my limits. I only just made it back to the shore after some serious effort born out of pure ego. I would have drifted out to New Zealand if Moz hadn't come in to help. And to think, I considered trying to handle it myself! What an idiot!!! I was humbled, belittled & crest fallen at my poor surf fitness & the predicament I'd got myself into. If I'd been alone on a quiet beach somewhere with no other surfers around, I'd be in more than a spot of bother.
The lesson? Know your limits & don't be afraid to reassess them from time to time, as things change. We feel tired, we feel cold, we get older (who me? I hear you say) or we're just not being honest with ourselves. Whether socially, intellectually, physically or emotionally, we all have peaks & troughs in our assumed abilities. We should never be to proud to admit needing help. We should never be too proud to ask a question. The only stupid thing about questions is the one not asked. We're all beginners at some stage, or we might have overestimated our perceived talents & attributes. Stay honest & in the moment, you could miss out on something. In my case it was my own personal safety that was at stake, no small thing. Thanks for saving my arse Moz, I owe you one brother!

PS. To add insult to injury, I didn't manage to catch a single wave, but the whole experience was worth it.