Whitewash Head

Had a hilarious & insightful email from my fellow Silver Grommet mate, Bez, last week. He was telling me of his latest outing into the surf of Christchurch. Thought I'd share it with you...

"Not sure if I have told you this yet...even if I have it was so much fun I will tell you again.

Two weeks ago I went out in a 4-6ft swell. Really mint conditions for Christchurch. I was way the f@#k out the back....the furtherest I have ever ventured. I rode a rip that hugs a cliff face called "whitewash head". It took me out the back into the big blue where I could see around the penninsular and into the other bays. Magic. Never seen that before from the water. There were a couple of other blokes out there otherwise I would have shat myself. I was out there looking for some unbroken water to have a rest really! Every now and then these MASSIVE sets would come through. I'd go pale and farty and pray my feeble turtle roll would protect me from the white water crush and tumble. In the interests of self preservation I decided to try and get the f@#k back to land. Unfortunately I'd have to paddle into one of these monsters.

I noticed that the first couple of rollers seemed a little less hostile than the remaining ones so thought I'g go early on the next set.

I see my ride coming...I'm deep in the pocket and totally committed. As this face starts to really lift I hit it and am just managing to keep my feet connected to the plank, such is its force. As I'm cranking down the steep drop, with my eyeballs and hemorroids hanging out, the other blokes out there are ripping a yeeeeeaaaaaaa in support of my limb flagging antics. Bless them.

Somehow...unbeknownst to me, I manage to stick it and carve a nice turn at the bottom and come around right and start to feel this wave. We hang out together for what seems like an age. Me finding the angles and moving with it's changing nature.

When it runs out of puff, I almost start paragliding with my face, such is the width of my smile. Every time I have ever caught a wave, it's the best wave ever...but this really was the best wave ever...until the next one.

Wow...I'm still feeling keenly the joy of that moment :) "