Stalled

So, I'm all set to dive into the new world of surfing. I get a wetty & hire a board & head out to Torquay to have another go. Only thing is, I can't catch one friggn' wave in over 45 mins! It's pathetic. My last outing was a wave fest...well almost. So what's happened?

I called it quits & tried not to be too hard on myself, but my next outing is just as dismal. I'm starting to get a little paranoid, thinking that session with Bez was just a lucky day.

I've discovered that it's going to happen from time to time, especially as you're beginning. Some days are like gold & the others are just wet. Perseverance is the key here. I've learned this lesson in other interests & activities. More than any other time in your pursuit of a new hobby or activity, the first few months or outings are going to need perseverance. Why bother otherwise? Everybody has to start somewhere don't they?

So, the next surf I had, my mate Moz (a regular surfer) was with me. We were surfing on his side of the bay, Pt Leo at 2nd's. That day was invaluable in terms of knowing ones limits (but I'll save that story for another post). The thing that Moz was able to point out to me was that I was trying to stand up too soon. I was so eager for that next wave that I was doing myself in before I'd even got on it. I wasn't paddling for long enough and then I was trying to get up before I was fully on the wave. If it wasn't for a friend's keen eye I could have been going at it like this for months & getting frustrate.

Actually, frustration is something you should expect when you first start surfing, it's part of the package. The trick is how much do you allow that frustration to undermine your passion for surfing. For some, it's no biggy, but for others of differing personality types it can be a deal breaker. Patience, Grasshopper, patience.

One of the things that helped me get perspective on the journey I'm undertaking was a conversation with one of Moz's mates, Barry. Barry's an Irishman & has been surfing for 7 + years now I think, maybe longer. He was amazing to watch that day. He couldn't miss a wave, truly gifted. He said he went through three years of getting dumped, tumbled & hammered in the surf. It just took a while for him to find his groove & for everything to come together. It made me realise I was definitely being too hard on myself after only a few serious outings.

The thrashings are part of the learning I've discovered. They happen each time I go out & each time I learn just that little bit more about the ocean, my board & my limits. You just have to shake it off, have a laugh at yourself & go again.