Little by Little

Have been getting out to surf pretty regularly the last couple of months. At least once a week, sometimes twice. The surf hasn't always been great, but I can't complain as I haven't quite worked out the breaks I surf yet. Some days they're best at low tide, so I try for that, then I get there & nothing is happening. So I try for high tide, but the wind isn't quite right. So I try for the optimal wind direction combined with a rising mid-tide, but get there only to find there's not much swell happening that day. Very bloody frustrating...depending on my mood. Just to get out there & be in the ocean, feeling the icy chill on my skin & the power & surge of the swell beneath me is often enough to have me smiling & thinking of when I can next get back for another little surf.

When I come out of the water, I find I'm born again. Free from all the minor worries of life, it's disappointments, thrills, spills & surprises. I'm back to zero, ready to start my life fresh, no past, no future, just NOW, each & every time. It's why so many people become addicted to surfing I suppose. It's a very hard thing to get across to anyone unless they've had more than a quick whitewash go at it, but then again, most people can connect easily with the majesty & beauty of the ocean. It attracts & lures so many of us.

Have had some friends say they are too big to surf, or too tall or too little. Rubbish. The waves don't know how big you are. The surf board doesn't know how big you are. If you can stand on one leg for three seconds or more then you have enough balance. Pick the right size board for you & have a go! You'll love it, guaranteed.