I've had some good little waves of late, but some have tossed me around like a cork. I come up to the surface spluttering & blinking wondering how such a harmless & friendly little wave could have done that to me so easily and unexpectedly. Then I replay what happened & nearly always find a small fault with my position on the board, or my take-off, or angle into the beach etc. etc.. It only take s a lapse in concentration for a split second & you've been shown who's boss. I love it. Just when I think I'm getting a handle on things, I'm tossed aside like a piece of inconsequential driftwood.
I discovered a great little spot by accident recently, Urquharts Bluff, just out of Anglesea one afternoon. I got down there just as the sun broke through an overcast day. The waves were perfect for a beginner like me & there was a small school bus of kids learning how to surf (minus the bus of course) just finishing up. I paddled out & found a quiet spot where there's a consistent right-hander only two feet high. As I sat on my board, bobbing in the cold clear water, I noticed out over Bass Straight there was a huge rainbow looming after a sun shower. I caught a few little easy waves, had a blast & after coming in & drying off I sat on the little grassy hill overlooking the beach & watched a two other guys enjoying the last few waves in the sub-conscious warmth of the setting winter sun. What could be more perfect? A death-bed memory, right there!
No comments:
Post a Comment