Had a nice little surf down at Lorne on the weekend (great beginners beach to learn on). Nothing much was happening & it was virtually closed out as it tends to do there. Yet I had some fun for an hour or so before it was dead. I came in on a wave to the beach, hopped off into knee high water & was about to grab my board when a little shore break came up behind me & smacked my board hard up against my lower right leg. I only registered the impact for a second then went back out to get what I could from the dying swell.
When I got out I noticed I was tight in the lower leg & limping a little, but I was in that euphoric moment of, "I just went surfing & all is right with the world". When I got home to Geelong later, I got out & could hardly put any weight on that leg. Ignoring it, as men tend to do, for the next couple of hours I finally had a look to see if there was any evidence of my soreness. Sure enough, I had a lump on the side of my leg like a small developing country in the pacific. Some ice, then heat & rest, by the next day it wasn't so bad. Makes me realise how important it is not to just switch off once the ride is over. A small lapse in concentration, but one I won't be making again.
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