Decided to go surf some of the coast west of here on my own for a few days recently. The plan was to drive as far as Warnambool, surf, read, play guitar, look at an open fire, surf, but I didn't get past Apollo Bay. Have to say that pulling up to a break you know nothing about is a little nerv racking when you're alone & have no local knowledge to draw on. In the end I didn't have the time to spend driving for days, so I decided to leave more time for surfing.
I stayed one night at Wye River (awesome pub btw & the locals were really friendly & forthcoming with local knowledge of some of the breaks, as well as confidence shattering stories over a beer or two, or three, of rogue waves, Killer Whales, Sharks etc...thanks for that). I got to a place just east of Apollo Bay on the Great Ocean Road called Petticoat Creek and decided to take a look. Gorgeous little spot tucked into a hillside. Decided that view & nestled feeling would do me for another couple of days. Apt name really, seeing as I'm such a big girls blouse! The waves were friggin' massive!!! The first two days were not possible to surf due to a huge storm front that came in. Not even the shortboard riders were out, let alone beginners on longboards like me. The waves were double overhead at certain breaks, I wanted to take a trip to the dunny just at the sight & sound of them! Although I couldn't get out there and have a paddle, I was content just to be in their presence, like a lover just out of reach.
Got out Saturday in the sheeting rain that was so heavy I could barely see the beach once I was out. It turned to mush quickly so I went back in & stood on the beach, board at my feet, arms folded, shivering a little as I looked out into the big blue with a thousand yard stare. I was Bodhi, "just waiting for my set" but content to see there was a whale (one of several I saw over the four days) out off the beach 300 metres or so having some fun. Right! I thought, if he's out there then I can get out there. Not taking any notice of the fact that the whale & I share no similarities whatsoever apart from both being mammals...details! I went back out with a smiling determination that only the foolhardy & the innocent can foster. It was wiped off my face pretty quickly once I was slapped around. The waves were like a disgruntled lover, giving me a backhander every time I got excited about the prospect of having a ride. Surfing and women...hmmm, plenty of comparisons to be drawn there, but another time. Swallowed a gob-full of seawater in a frontloader whitewash of one attempt that made me want to vomit instantly. Later it just made want to give up on the idea of dinner, my stomach was that full of ocean minerals.
On the way home I stopped off at a nice little break. The sun was shining and although I had to share the waves with several others, the feeling and etiquette was polite most of the time. I caught a few waves and have even started to feel more confident with my turns now. Nothing spectacular, but enough to make me feel like I'm past the, "Heading straight for the beach", stage.
Disappointed I didn't see more of the coast but I know there will be other trips. I have to say, better to be surfing unknown breaks with a friend or two. It's pretty scary stuff for a beginner like me to just paddle out & hope for the best without having a plan B with or without local knowledge. They don't call it The Shipwreck Coast for nothing.
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